Better with Butter

(The Book, Not the Food...But Also the Food)

Apologies in advance to those of you who live in frigid climates; I know how hard Feb-April can be! But…it finally feels like spring in LA. On my nightly after-dinner walk there’s a jasmine bush I eagerly look forward to huffing as cars whizz by. Is there anything better than that smell?! It fills me with hope: for growth, rebirth and renewal, along with a reminder that even when Mother Nature says go fuck yourself in January, she’ll inevitably come back around in March and give you a blossom right when you need one. In the spirit of unabashed enjoyment: a thrilling tale of murder and misogyny in Japan. Plus a recipe for late winter/early spring.

Read

Butter by Asako Yuzuki, translated from the Japanese by Polly Barton, pub. 2017
Buy: Bookshop.org or your local bookstore or library

We chose Butter for my book club and I couldn’t be happier about it. As you know by now, I love a translated Japanese novel; this is by far the most thrilling I’ve read. Butter’s cover – vivid yellow, streaked with blood – is a bit of a false portrayal, though. This isn’t a murder mystery as much as it is a deep dive into the mind of a woman (and convicted killer) who refuses to adhere to Japanese society’s strict definition of ‘feminine,’ and the journalist whose world is opened as a result. Yes, there’s murder. But where I was expecting blood and gore I was met instead with dramatic renditions of sauteing, languid descriptions of eating. This is a book about what it looks like when a woman allows herself to indulge freely, sensually and for herself. It’s an exploration of female pleasure – without a man in sight.

The novel’s convicted killer, Manako Kajii, is based on a real-life serial killer and con woman nicknamed the ‘Konkatsu Killer’ (only in Japan!). Jailed after three of her partners wind up dead, Kajii basically becomes a meme in the country. Not because of her crime…but because she’s considered fat (at 70kg, or 150 pounds). What’s a worse crime: a woman who takes someone’s life, or a woman who lives her life?

Rika Machida, an intrepid journalist working for a local magazine, fixates on Kajii’s case, eventually worming her way into visiting hours with the convict. Kajii worms right back: into Rika’s mind, where she plants seeds of rebellion in the form of cooking and eating. Rika is intrigued by Kajii’s blunt rejection of social expectations; all it takes is the taste of real butter (which is being rationed due to a nationwide shortage) and she falls under Kajii’s spell, wooed by flavors she’s never allowed herself to enjoy, in quantities she wouldn’t ever have dared consume. She gains weight and watches the growing discomfort of those around her: a boyfriend mocks her; even her best friend, Reiko (a reedy wisp with ulterior motives), questions her judgment.

Rika tunes them out and delves deeper into her search for Kajii’s truth, which takes her on trains across the country, to grocery aisles packed with the glistening yellow dairy she’s grown to love. She’s on a quest — allegedly to score an exclusive interview with Kajii and get her to confess — but by the end, the murders (and the interview) almost become moot. The finale will make you throw up your hands as if you’ve won a home game.

Eat

I’m realizing belatedly that it would’ve made sense to include a recipe with copious amounts of butter today. Here’s one, and another for good measure. But this week we’re abstaining. Don’t worry: You’ll derive pleasure from it all the same.

Notes: Firstly, if you don’t consider yourself a ‘tofu person,’ who even are you? Drop your stigma and get thee to a co-op. If you can’t get past it, at least make the pistachios. They’re so addictive I easily ate 2 cups over the course of a week. Secondly, this recipe might look like a faff but despite its four components it actually comes together quickly. Trust me! Thirdly, I completely forgot to take a photo of this dish! Enjoy instead a pic of glorious squash grown by famed Ojai farmer / diva Sabrina Bohn of Shear Rock Farms.

Roasted Squash with Whipped Tofu, Herby Salad and Spiced Pistachios
Serves 4, abundantly

Roasted Squash

1 large butternut or 4 delicata squash, cut into half-moons or rings and roasted at 425F until caramelized (I used a variety called Violina Di Rugosa which, if you can find, is worth seeking out. It’s my #1 of all the squashes! Truly magical.)

Whipped Tofu

½ block silken tofu
½ block semi-firm tofu
2 tablespoons chile oil (I used Botanica’s but you can use what you have!)
¼ cup tahini
Squeeze lemon juice
Pinch Kosher salt

Spiced Pistachios

1 cup raw pistachios
1 teaspoon Diaspora pink garlic powder
1 tablespoon maple syrup
Evoo
Kosher salt

Herby Salad

1 big handful each of cilantro and mint, picked
2 mandarinquats, sliced crosswise (sub cara cara supremes if you live outside of California)
Juice of 1 lemon
Evoo
Maldon

First, roast your squash until it’s caramelized. While it cooks, whip your tofu by putting everything into a small food processor (or blender) and blending until incorporated. Next, the pistachios: Heat a drizzle of evoo in a small saute pan on medium. Add the rest of the ingredients, mix well with a spatula and let the pistachios toast, stirring frequently and watching closely; they burn easily! Set aside to cool for at least 20 minutes. Finally, assemble the herby salad by adding the herbs and mandarinquats or cara cara’s to a bowl. Squeeze over the juice of a lemon and a drizzle of olive oil. Season with Maldon and mix gently with your hands. To assemble, swoosh the whipped tofu on a platter with the back of a spoon. Arrange the squash atop, then pile the herb salad over everything. Finish with the pistachios (you won’t use the whole cup), a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkle of Maldon.